28 Gedanken zu „Getting Your Army Painted – Warhammer Weekly 06282023“
  1. Worse for me when it comes painting an army is I have the worlds smallest attention span. Have these cool ideas in my head..paint a couple of models then get bored and move onto something else 🙁

  2. Something that MASSIVELY helped me get my custodes painted was having two rules. 1) Every night put paint on model. and 2) give everything a week. If it didn't get done in a week I evaluate my progress, if I'm burned out on the model (like I was my calladius tank) then it goes on the shelf and I paint something else for a few weeks. The combo of those got me 2k painted in about 2 months. It wasn't fast but I was able to divide up the work (1 unit, 1 vehicle or 1 hero per week) and it kept my motivation super high since I was getting that continuous 'finished' state, and for the first time in my painting and gaming career I'm still wanting to paint my finished army. (usually I hit 2k and just stop). I'm on track to hit 4.5k by the end of summer and I won a ticket for the 40k grand narrative in atlanta! Also the super small batches (5 models max) helped me not hit the burn out stage I had with my NH where I was trying to have MUCH too large batches (20+ models, thought with how simple my painting scheme was it would be possible, I was VERY wrong).

  3. Tyler I get where you are coming from, I like "systems approaches" to things with clear progressions, next steps and efficiency paths. And painting doesn't really have that, but much like an athletic activity there are individual skills that add up to a summative whole and repetition matters. There isn't, to use Vince's analogy, the fencing equivalent of parry or footwork drills for brush control, but painting a bunch of faces on stormcast will help with that.

    Personally the base, shadow, highlight system helped me a lot sort my painting from a nebulous, mystic task into a step by step process I could wrap my head around, and once I grapsed by process I could step outside it and try other things.

  4. I'm not much of an army painter, but for Cancon I smashed out a passion project, with the kind of hours you (Vince) have talked about doing on the regular. I was physically wrecked. Elbows, neck, back. The untalked about part of painting is the physical set up, how do you avoid the above issues, maximise comfort etc. I am embarking on a ton of tourney terrain prep and then a new army very soon but I'd like to redo my set up first!

  5. Ooh, I was just in the market for a new wet palette. My old Frisk Acrylic Keep-Wet has served me well for around five years now, but it's just vacuum-molded plastic and it has cracks in it now. Ordered the Exemplar from GameEnvy while still watching this without hesitation, thanks for the recommendation Vince!

  6. Ahh I need this lol. Been out of hobby for painting for months. Just can't seem to have the energy to pick up my brush but I'll pop this on soon and hopefully start to stroke…. my brush.

  7. THE WAY MY HEAD SHOT UP WHEN VINCE SAID TAU! I think maybe 2 to 3 times I have heard him say tau on his channel and they are my favorite army.

    Give us the battlesuit hobby cheating 🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺

  8. I have a question and a comment about painting black armour. My question, based on your answer in the video, is "does a satin black like Abaddon Black remain satin when sprayed through an airbrush?".

    My comment, which I think is part of the reason people struggle with painting black armour, is that if you prime your mini black (and you probably will if you're paining it black), then as you start painting panels of their armour those panels are going to look grey, because they are going the be contrasted against the pure black background of the as yet unpainted mini. So I feel the best advice people like me can be given is power through and don't worry about this. Once the whole of the armour, and the (hopefully) non-black other parts of armour, are painted the effect will (hopefully) disappear.

    As a side note, the less overall black the mini has, the more black reads as black. The new Black Templars minis, with their big off-white tabards, are great for this: having a huge piece of light coloured area on the front of the mini really makes the black read more as black.

  9. Tyler, you have a comprehensive set of videos on almost every topic imaginable in the "Hobby Cheating" series. I'm the same way in trying to organize things. When I first got into painting, I had no idea where to start. It was the Hobby Cheating series that helped me organize my thoughts and techniques. What I learned was that there are a thousand different techniques to learn, but only a few really important ones. Learn the important ones first as a foundation, then build on top of them. For me, basic brush control and paint thinning was the foundation. Paint on pallet, mix with water to desired consistency, clean brush, dip again, wick, then paint. Multiple thin coats. Then start experimenting with other techniques. Each technique is a tool in your toolbox. Identifying the technique as you're using it is important, as it allows you to realize you're practicing that particular technique, and to use good form as you're doing so. I can't emphasize how much I love the Hobby Cheating series because it emphasizes good form on every technique.

  10. In answer to that last question about alternative Beastmen sculpts, I don't know about "fitting in" with GW models. But I can think of a couple manufacturers that produce beastmen models that might be worth looking into.

    -RGD Gaming produces kits for Satyrs, Fauns, and Centaurs. Kind of more of the same sort of goat people, but it's good for bulking out the force. (Or starting one cheaply).

    -North Star Military Figures has its Frostgrave line, which contains both Gnolls (hyena-men) and Snakemen as plastic kits. Along with a few metal ones for making hero models or the like. I started my Beastmen warband with a box of Gnolls. Been meaning to order some of the metal Gnoll characters, including the big Gnoll-minotaur (for use as a Doombull). The one downside to the kits is they're made for skirmish warbands, so you'll need to source musicians and banner bearers yourself.

    -Knightmare Miniatures has a selection of metal Beastmen models, that all have different animal heads. It'll be difficult to make whole units of the same animal, but it's really useful if you want to add variety or to make mixed "zoo crew" style units.

    -Warmonger Miniatures is another company that produces metal models. They've got a whole range of metal Beastmen in the traditional goat arrangement. But you can also buy a couple sets of "Bovine Beastmen" (cow heads kitbashed onto orc bodies). One of the models in these sets is instead a dragon-headed beastman.

  11. I’ve never understood why so many people want to keep their schemes perfectly consistent. I feel it looks kinda weird when everything is exactly consistent. Plus that’s not fun to paint

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